Bon jour, Quebec!

LOCATION: New Richmond, Quebec – on SW corner of Gaspe’ Peninsula

CAMPGROUND: Point Taylor Campground. Commercial park, but seems more like a state park. Woodsy. Spacious lots. Mostly hookups. Brand new bathroom. Laundry. Dish sinks. Wifi. Beach access. 25 USD/night for no-service site. 4 stars out of 5

WEATHER: Mostly cloudy and light rain. Clearing in PM. Cool – High 60s

We got every penny’s worth of our campground in Lameque, leaving at 10:59 AM (check-out was 11:00). We are so lucky that the weather for our stay here wasn’t like it is today – cold, windy and rainy. Good day for driving. Our destination was just across the Bay in Quebec, but we had to go south to leave the Acadian Peninsula, then southwest, then north to the Bay, and finally east starting around the Gaspe’.

Almost as soon as we entered Quebec, George saw a moose along the highway. Unfortunately, I was looking the other way and missed seeing it.

We gained an hour with Eastern Time Zone, which was good, as we started looking for a campground at 3:00. Everything seems super busy, and much more developed than it was 5 years ago, when we were here. The first campground we went to was completely full. This one had 2 slots available, both without services (meaning no electricity, water, sewer). Since we don’t need A/C, and we have plenty of water, the no-service site was fine. We were lucky to get one in the back next to the woods where we didn’t have to unhook.

As George was “doing his business” in the woods, he spotted a blanket of chanterelle mushrooms. What a find!

We took a walk to a fish market we had seen near the entrance of the park. It was a beautiful store. We bought some smoked eel to snack on, some sushi for tonight’s appetizer, and a live lobster to cook for dinner.

Back at the campground, we walked just a few feet from our site to the beach. You can see the Acadian Peninsula in New Brunswick, where we were just this morning, across the Bay.

George made a nice fire, and we prepared Larry our Lobster for his hot bath :-).

DINNER: Sushi appetizers (an assortment of crab, smoked salmon, tempura, and shrimp) with some Japanese sake’. First course was chanterelles. I tried to replicate the delicious appetizer we had last evening at the restaurant. I made a cream sauce (with lots of butter) and added that to the sautéed chanterelles. Pretty close to the restaurant version. Main course was the lobster. Cooked to perfection!

Acadia Day!

LOCATION: Petit-Lameque on the Acadian Peninsula in NE New Brunswick

CAMPGROUND: Camping Lameque. Great. See previous description

WEATHER: Sun in AM; Cloudy and some rain in PM

We said goodbye to our friends Tony and Jenny, who left for a 6-hour trip back home to Nova Scotia. It has been great being with them again. We did little projects around the camper most of the day. (George can always find something to fix).

Then, in the afternoon, we took a drive to another part of the island. It seemed very remote. The road ended at a wharf where lots of lobster boats were docked, ready for the next season.

Back in the main town of Lameque, we stopped at a surprisingly elegant restaurant. (I think there is good money in lobster fishing). We only wanted a drink, but the bartender said that their licensing requires customers to eat something, too. (Each state and province seems to have unique laws). Today is Acadia Day, and we had an hour to kill before the parade, so we decided to have a drink and appetizer. The waitress did not speak much English, and asked me if I understand French. So, we got by…..I understood her description of today’s appetizer, a chanterelle mushroom dish in a rich sauce that she highly recommended. So, I said “oui”. It was out of this world delicious!!!

By then, it was 6:00, time for the closing ceremony parade for the Acadian Festival. Everyone was gathered at the big Catholic Church. At the stroke of 6:00, the church bells starting ringing, cars started blowing their horns, and hundreds of residents streamed out of the church banging pots and pans, blowing noise machines, and generally just making a lot of noise. It was great!

(I put a video with sound on my Facebook page)

When we returned to the campground, some of the campers were having their own noisy parade…

Many of the houses are decorated for the 2-week Acadian Festival. Even some of the campers in our campground are decked out..

DINNER: Time for leftovers again. Beef stroganoff using leftover grilled hamburger meat, egg noodles and sour cream. Very good!

Windy Acadian Peninsula

LOCATION: Petite Lameque on the Acadian Peninsula, in NE New Brunswick

CAMPGROUND: Camping Lameque. Great. See previous description

WEATHER: Nice. High 80. Windy in PM

Today started out with a bang – whelks for breakfast! George did a take of shrimp and grits, only with some leftover whelks instead of shrimp. Whelks are quite popular and abundant here. They are super chewy, so the taste sensation was quite peculiar!

We took off in another direction today, to explore another part of the peninsula. The small towns along the way are preparing for tomorrow’s Acadia Day decorating their house with Acadian colors. We also saw a lot of ospreys in their nests, feeding their (almost) grown-up babies.

The Acadian culture is mostly Catholic, and their churches in small towns are really majestic. They seem very European.

Back at the campground, the wind had really picked up. The wind surfers were out. I sat at the seawall and watched them for about an hour. Really fascinating.

I’ve been corresponding with the Airstream factory to schedule a date for our dent repair. We finally confirmed October 3. The factory is in central Ohio, so that helps us develop our travel plans between now and then. After we leave here, we plan to go to Quebec, around the Gaspé Peninsula and then north to Labrador. After that, back through Quebec, around Quebec City. From there, south to northern Vermont and northern New York. Then, along the St. Lawrence River to the Thousand Islands area. Maybe go back into Canada and/or the Finger Lakes of New York.

We decided to extend our stay one extra day here in order to watch the Acadia Day Festival’s closing ceremonies tomorrow. Tony and Jenny, though, have to head home. So, we celebrated our get-together and last dinner together with a bottle of champagne. We have had a great 15 days together. We started thinking about where we might next meet. We have been in 3 major areas in New Brunswick, each unique and beautiful. Maybe Ontario next summer.

DINNER: Tony and I split dinner duties tonight. He made salad; I made an Asian stir-fry with shrimp.

The end of the road…..literally!

LOCATION: Petite Lameque on the Acadian Peninsula in NE New Brunswick

CAMPGROUND: Camping Lameque. Great. See previous description

WEATHER: Another beautiful day. Sunny. High 75

We started today with the wild blueberries we picked yesterday – blueberries on oatmeal for me and blueberry pancakes for others. What a treat!

Today, we drove to the end of the road. “Road ends in water” is certainly true. We drove across our island of Lameque out to Miscou Island. The lighthouse is the end of the road, as far north as you can go on the Acadian Peninsula. We could see the Gaspé Peninsula (Quebec) across the water.

After exploring the lighthouse and beach, and going on a boardwalk tour of a peat bog, we stopped at this super cute beach restaurant. It was just like Key West, only about 30 degrees cooler!

It is called “Resto La Terrazze a’ Steve”. The custom is to write your name on any wood surface in the restaurant. Tony borrowed a marker and went to work….

He wrote for us “Reids on the Road 2018”

And “Taj Me Haul” (the name of Tony and Jenny’s Rpod trailer) for them

We ate outside and watched the fishermen go by.

We shared a lobster “with secret sauce” and two pieces of sushi, and enjoyed the experience. We chatted with Steve, who seems like quite a character. There are only about 500 people living on this island, all involved in the fishing industry. Lobster and crab traps are in everyone’s yard.

Back at the campground, we relaxed and planned some of our next few days. I’m worried about not having camping reservations over Labor Day. I can’t find anything online with vacancies. George thinks we should “wing it”.

DINNER: My turn tonight. I fixed spaghetti with a tomato/veg/meat sauce. Side was cucumbers and tomatoes, along with some of the basil I have been babying along. Very Italian!

After dinner, we drove to a beach area to watch the fiery ball of sun set over the water. Magnificent!

Blueberry Nirvana!

LOCATION: Petit-Lameque on the Acadian Peninsula in NE New Brunswick

CAMPGROUND: Camping Lameque

WEATHER: Sunny and nice. High 75

We started the day with a hike at an eco-park. The boardwalk was nice, with signs pointing out different types of fish and birds in the brackish water.

Then, the trail took us into the woods. Normally, it would have been quite interesting, but the everyday high winds suddenly stopped and the mosquitos came out to take advantage of our uncovered skin. We practically ran on the trail, just glancing at the information signs about trees and flowers.

We are on a string of islands, the biggest being Lameque and Miscou.

(This says: Two Islands; A Thousand Treasures)

On our way home, we stopped at a field with millions, not thousands, of wild blueberries. We quickly picked our fill.

We relaxed in the afternoon, with books and wifi.

DINNER: Tony’s turn tonight. He made a great Caesar salad and lightly fried some local cod. Then, George dug out our pie iron and made a blueberry “pie” for dessert.

Checking out Acadian Festival

LOCATION: Petite Lameque on the Acadian Peninsula, in NE New Brunswick

CAMPGROUND: Camping Lameque. Great – see previous description

WEATHER: Beautiful. Sunny. High 75

This area is all about fishing. As we drove into town, we passed these boats waiting for their season to start.

We drove to Caraquet, one of the main towns on the peninsula, where most of the Acadian Festival was taking place. First we checked out the farmers’ market..

Then, we walked around the festival area. The brochure about the festival is in French, but we found a festival worker who explained some of the upcoming events. Unfortunately, the Acadian music doesn’t start until 10:00 PM, and that is too late for us to be driving back to the campground.

Many of the houses are decorated with Acadian flags and other decorations – like this house.

Even some of the boats are decorated.

These fishermen were repairing their nets on the dock.

We had lunch in the harbor. Tony, in his quest for excellent poutine, tried the clam poutine. George had the clam pie and I had shrimp. All excellent.

We drove through little towns looking for a brewery listed in our guidebook. Finally we found one, and it was well worth it. The cute pourer shifted between English (to us, the only English customers), then back to French for everyone else.

DINNER: Our turn tonight. George grilled hamburgers over the fire. Side were onions and potatoes sauteed.

North to the Acadian Peninsula

LOCATION: Lameque, New Brunswick in NE corner of province

CAMPGROUND: Camping Lameque. Commercial park. Lots of seasonal RVs. Right on water. RVs are a bit lined up, but not too crowded. Nice, level, gravel site with full hook-ups. Wifi at office. Beautiful bathrooms with shower “nooks” for hanging clothes. Swimming pool. Beach. Picnic table and fire ring. $38 Canadian ($28 US)/night. 5 stars out of 5.

WEATHER: Perfect. Sunny. Highs in low 70s

As we packed up to leave Kouchibiguac National Park, we found a wild blueberry bush right on our campsite! This, after searching in ditches along the highway. Our drive today was about 3 hours, north to the Acadian Peninsula.

Along the way, we stopped at a really nice microbrewery. George filled up our growlers for the first time on this trip, as it was the first time the price was right for him.

The farther north we traveled today, the less English we saw on signs. Many of the houses have ornate Acadian flag displays, for the Acadian Festival now going on.

When we pulled in to the RV park, we spotted another Airstream. We introduced each other (speaking French/English) and toured each other’s trailer.

We can see the water, the Gulf of St. Lawrence, from our site. Often windy here, it is a popular place for kite-surfing.

DINNER: Tony’s turn tonight. He bought an assortment of local seafood and we had a big appetizer “buffet”. We started with smoked salmon dip. Then, interesting whelks….

A bit chewy. Interesting. Followed by pickled herring and snow crab claws. Wow, what a treat!